By Ryan Brower | firstname.lastname@example.org
Some started because it was handed down from dad. Some started because it looked like a hobby that could be exciting and new. Some started because all their friends were doing it. Some started because they wanted to connect with the ocean.
The list goes on and on. And no matter the reason for beginning, we as surfers all know that the main attraction to surfing is the enjoyment one achieves by getting to “play” in the ocean. You cannot deny this fact. Think about it for a second: If surfing wasn’t fun, if it was a chore, or something you despised, would you still do it?
This question really can’t even be answered because fun is the heart of surfing. Without fun surfing would cease to exist as we know it. It plays such a pivotal role in a surfer’s life that it would no longer represent the same act.
As we grow older and the sport (as well as ourselves) progresses, our ideas and attitudes alter and evolve, hopefully for the better. Change is inevitable and we are never the person we used to be. Taking this into account, why are we out there? Are they still for the same reasons?
Some are out there to make money. Some are out there to get their picture in a magazine. Some are out there to make someone proud. Some are out there searching for life. Some are out there to spend time with buddies. Some are out there to win. Some are out there to be the best. Some are out there to portray an image. Some are out there to pass the time. Some are out there to challenge the limits of possibility.
Whatever your reason may be, is it anything close to what your reason used to be? Is it a purposeful endeavor? My hope is that surfers can remember why we’re all out there in the first place. Because no matter what your reason may be now, the elements of enjoyment and fun have to play into your purpose for being out there.